A workable wash day for curly and coily hair has five parts: section, optionally pre-treat, cleanse the scalp, condition and detangle, then style while the hair is soaking wet. The order matters mainly because wet textured hair is fragile and tangles easily, so every step is about reducing friction and pulling.
How often to wash
The American Academy of Dermatology, in its advice on Black hair, suggests washing once a week or every other week, partly to limit product build-up that can dry the hair out. That is a sensible starting range for many textured heads, but it is a guide rather than a rule. An oily scalp, heavy styling product, sweat from exercise or an itchy scalp can all justify washing more often. Very dry hair that is not heavily styled may be happy at the longer end.
Co-washing, which means cleansing with a conditioner-type product, is popular between full washes. It can refresh hair, but it is not designed to cleanse the scalp thoroughly, so a proper shampoo still has a place from time to time.
The routine, step by step
- Section. Divide dry hair into four to six parts and loosely twist or clip them. Working in sections stops strands from knotting together under running water.
- Pre-treat (optional). Apply an oil or a conditioner to the lengths before shampooing. This is often called a pre-poo.
- Cleanse the scalp. Wet the hair thoroughly, apply shampoo to the scalp only and massage with the pads of your fingers. Let the suds run down the lengths as you rinse, rather than scrubbing the lengths themselves.
- Condition. Apply a generous amount of conditioner, concentrating on the ends, which are the oldest and most fragile part of the hair.
- Detangle. Work through each section with fingers or a wide-tooth comb while the conditioner is in, starting at the ends and moving up. The full method is in detangling curly hair without breakage.
- Rinse and style. Rinse most of the conditioner out, then apply leave-in and styler while the hair is still dripping wet.
- Dry gently. Squeeze out water with a microfibre towel or soft cotton t-shirt rather than rubbing. See drying curly hair for the options.
Does a pre-poo actually help?
There is some laboratory support for the idea, but only for one oil. A 2003 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Science compared coconut, sunflower and mineral oil and found that coconut oil reduced protein loss from hair when used before washing, while sunflower and mineral oil did not. That is a single, old, small-scale study of hair samples, not a trial of curly hair in daily life, so it supports trying coconut oil rather than proving a pre-poo is necessary.
If a pre-poo makes detangling easier and your hair feels better afterwards, it is a cheap habit to keep. If it leaves hair greasy or makes washing out harder, drop it. A rinse-off conditioner applied before shampoo is an alternative that some people find lighter.
Common mistakes
| Step | Mistake | Better approach |
|---|---|---|
| Shampoo | Piling hair on top of the head and scrubbing the lengths | Keep to the scalp and let the suds rinse down |
| Conditioner | Using a small amount and detangling dry | Use enough that the comb glides, on wet hair |
| Detangling | Starting at the roots | Start at the ends and move up in stages |
| Styling | Applying product to damp, nearly dry hair | Apply to soaking wet hair so it spreads evenly |
| Drying | Rubbing with a rough towel | Squeeze or blot, then leave hair alone while it dries |
Adjusting the routine for your scalp and hair
If your scalp is flaky or itchy, an anti-dandruff shampoo may be more useful than changing your conditioner. The NHS notes that dandruff is common and harmless, is not caused by poor hygiene, and can be treated with a shampoo containing ketoconazole, coal tar or salicylic acid, used for up to four weeks. See scalp care basics for more.
If hair feels coated, dull or will not take moisture, product build-up is a common reason, and an occasional clarifying shampoo can help. If it feels mushy or snaps, look at moisture vs protein balance before adding products.
Heat also changes the plan. The American Academy of Dermatology advises applying a heat protectant to wet hair before styling with heat and using the lowest temperature that gives the style you want.
Why gentleness matters more with tighter textures
A review of hair cosmetics in the International Journal of Trichology notes that African hair tends to have fewer cuticle layers than other hair types, a thinner cuticle that makes it more prone to breakage, and that breakage during growth limits the length curly and straightened hair can reach. That is the reasoning behind most of this routine: more slip, fewer passes with the comb and less rubbing. It also means that a slower wash day often pays off in less hair left in the sink.
Allow enough time that you never have to rush the detangling stage. Doing it half-heartedly, or in a hurry on a day with other plans, is how hair gets pulled. If time is tight, a shorter routine with a thorough detangle is better than a full routine with a rushed one.
Frequently asked questions
How often should I do wash day?
Weekly to fortnightly suits many people with textured hair, but an oily or itchy scalp may need more frequent washing.
Should I detangle wet or dry?
Wet hair coated in conditioner is easier on the strands, because conditioner reduces friction. Always start at the ends.
Is co-washing a replacement for shampoo?
No. Co-washing refreshes hair between washes, but the scalp still needs proper cleansing now and then.
Do I need to use a pre-poo?
No. Only coconut oil has laboratory evidence for reducing protein loss, so treat it as optional.